In this three part video series we build a “multi function miter saw station” that will be used not only as a miter saw station but also a space for my sanding machines, drill press and scroll saw.
In part two I finish assembling the table top by building the auxiliary fence as well as installing some custom dust extraction.
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Jord, great continuation of the miter saw table. I thought the little black and white snip-its were a cool little curiosity creator. Also, what happened to your head?
Doug
Thank Doug! My head? well… Lets just say that Im not very good at diving into pools. :p
Jordan
what is the o.a. size o your shop?
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will u be hooking up a shop vac to your miter saw
For the scale on your fence, you can use two cheap meters.You just have to make a groove on the top of the fence with the router, and insert the recut ribbon!
Really enjoy your videos. Thanks.
those little B&W movie inserts … do you need to explain?
Looking good so far. Your dust extraction is an interesting idea. Would like to know how effective it is. Look forward yo your next video. Rich.
like the setup. have a simiular one my self. to me it looks like your actual saw fence is adjusteble? if so you can screw a board to it, cut it, and you have an moveble zero clearance fence. dont know if thats of any use to you, just a smal tip
good vid
Nice build! I purchsed the same scroll saw today for about 15$ but I need to repair some things
I really admire how freely you can talk in front of the camera. Cool vids!
Can you still make compound cuts?
yes, the taller portions of the fence are removable. So if I want to make a compound cut all I need to do remove one side of the fence.Jordan
I will be, but the vac I usually use has given up the fight and Im waiting for the ShopVac pro to come on special again.Jordan
Not sure what o.a stands for, but the floor space is about 69m2 or about 730sqft. I hope thats what you mean.ThanksJordan
You might route a channel in the top of fence and lay in a piece of “T” track for an adjustable stop block. Very nice build.
B&W shorts in relation to the scratch on your face? My guess is some sort of incident involving your car!
You’re very good at explaining your decisions and what you’re doing! You’d make a good teacher.
I don’t know about you, but for me, bench space is really important. Did you consider ways to make the fence easily removable before coming to your final design?
One idea (and cheap):
You could drill holes up through the table and into an already-mounted fence section, and then screw in large lag bolts that were very slightly too thick for the holes, making sure all threads were inside the fence and only smooth shank stuck through the table. After, that, cut off the bolt heads, remove the screws from the top of the fence, and pry it off the table. The first few times you put it back on you might need a hammer, but as soon as it became doable by hand it could be gently inserted/removed and the compressed wood in the holes would probably keep them from developing too much play over time (well, hopefully…). Grinding a slight taper onto the very end of each cut lag bolt might make the fence go back on the table more easily.
Awesome design! I’m sick of using my own saw on the floor with blocks on either side to support wood for cuts.
Edit:
Long wing-head bolts through threaded inserts would take longer for removal, but would attach with less play. Eye bolts, each with a nut threaded on all the way and tack-welded, could double as hangers to get the fence sections out of the way.
I suppose that was pretty long-winded. In case it was confusing, too, here’s a diagram:
http://i1294.photobucket.com/albums/b614/Headland88/FenceMountingDiagram_zps9737d94a.png
Hey Jordon really liked your version of the mitre saw station .I have a small shop (half of my garage )I’m “old school”Canadian so I have to convert your measurements to inches but I think i’ll try to build a bench like yours .Keep up the videos they’re great
yeah dont use duct tape use caulk